Shoe Designer, Mirco Scoccia On Ethically Sourced Footwear and Designing With Plant Based Materials
WITH MIRCO SCOCCIA
He has heard the call for change and is ready to provide a myriad of solutions For The Fashion Industry.
Photography, Xavier Duah | Simi Vijay
Words, Douglas Henry Lewis In Conversation with Mirco Scoccia
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Mirco Scoccia is a distinguished designer who has seen first-hand the harm the fashion industry can cause and he’s determined to do something about it. His mission for O2 Monde, his upcoming luxury shoes and accessories brand, is “to permanently shift the luxury accessories paradigm by offering design-forward, truly sustainable, cruelty-free and exquisitely handcrafted footwear that honors the Earth’s heritage and protects its future.”
After viewing the press materials of his latest shoe collection, it seems that Scoccia has crossed all his T’s and dotted his I’s, seeking to check every single requirement off the list of anyone truly interested in saving our planet and staying stylish while doing so. His shoes are vegan, clean, and produced in Italian factories by artisans with long term experience in the industry.
In addition, Mirco is also seeking to replace animal hides and synthetic plastics with plant-based skins: revolutionizing the luxury shoe industry with one pineapple-skinned swatch at a time.
People are more aware and more conscious. It’s not cool anymore to buy real fur or real exotic.
THE LOOK
Luggage Trench Coat, Victor Li
After working as a women’s footwear designer and pattern maker for smaller luxury companies such as FABI and LE SILLA for a few years, he moved to Milan where he worked for Bottega Veneta for about seven years. His resume continued to flourish as he took on various shoe design roles at household names like Belstaff, Jill Stuart, Tory Burch, Cole Haan and M. Gemi.
Now on the verge of launching his own brand and as the creative director for Aerosoles, overseeing both the creative and design teams, it is safe to say that Mirco Scoccia has put in the work and is ready to rise. He has heard the call for change and is ready to provide a myriad of solutions.
Scoccia’s story is a wonderful example of paying your dues and when the time is right, seizing the moment. He credits his father and the shoe factories in his hometown of Fermo, Italy as the reason for him being in the shoe industry in the first place. He learned all he could from a young age, then furthered his education in the trade by attending the National Footwear Academy in Sant’Elpidio a Mare, Italy to learn about the process of sketching to everything else in between.
For Mirco, it is not just about creating a product. There is an inner fire within him regarding O2 Monde. He not only wants to create ethically sourced footwear that is built to last. Via social media, personal, interactive, and immersive, shopping experiences, Mirco aims to create his unique influence within this now-global narrative of sustainable living - inspiring people to live consciously from head to toe.
Read more to learn more about how this experienced designer is using his talent to spearhead this movement of real change in the footwear industry:
THE LOOK
Shoes, Givenchy
BO: Tell me about O2 Monde. You came from all of these great brands. What was the moment that sparked you to say “Okay, I want to do this?” Why now?
MS: Two years ago, I started work on this project. It happened because I worked in luxury for a long time and noticed that there was a lot of waste. I wanted to create something more sustainable and green. I realized I could cut a lot from the process and then start to experiment with new material sources as well. I started to do some trials with some of the best factories in Italy that produce for luxury brands. It was a bit challenging in the beginning because they are used to working traditionally, so I had to explain the new plant-based materials and we had to start tests. We eventually arrived at a great quality for the product and that is why right now, I’m ready to launch my new big and luxury shoe brand, O2 Monde. O2 is oxygen which is one of the most important elements for us. To me, “Monde” is the world.
We have to recreate and shift the fashion model in a more sustainable way. It can be from the production point of view but also the material and the product as well.
It’s a direct-to-consumer business so it would be more of an online business. Ideally, I would love to create a pop-up store where the customer can have a great experience and touch and see the product. That would be my dream to create a small, concept, store. Eventually, they can have a vegan breakfast.
we have to recreate and shift the fashion model in a more sustainable way.
THE LOOK
Sweater, Bottega Veneta
BO: I love your slippers, CELIA. The ZEBRA!
MS: Thank you! The quality is incredible and I offer a different selection of silhouettes (casual to dress) because I want to create some iconic styles.
For the collection, we are using plant based materials which lowers the amount of energy and water consumption used to create the product. I’m not specifically targeting the vegan customers, I am just wanting to make people aware that we don’t have to sacrifice animals to create great products. That to me, is the mission and the target. We are not perfect but I think this kind of sustainability can be the future for the fashion industry.
BO: Is being a shoe designer different today than it was when you started out?
MS: I do think the role of the designer is different. In the past, you just sketched the collection and that’s it. Now, I think you have to work with a different calendar. You have to be faster, you have to oversee the design production and also, the creative aspects because social media is more important. When I am working on creating content I want to make sure it is what I am envisioning for the brand. So I oversee the entire process for the photos and the videos as well.
BO: What are your favorite types of shoes to wear for yourself?
MS: I love dress shoes because you can see the quality of the shoe. Everything has to be perfect. You have to be careful. One detail makes a difference. It is something that has to be timeless, beautiful, and comfortable. I don’t love shoes that are too seasonal.
BO: You talked about how your products are made from plant based materials - pineapple, grapes and wine. What is the process like making plant-based shoes?
MS: Basically there is natural support and we are treating the materials like fabric. I use tailoring for this material so that they last on the shoes. Of course, some companies invest a lot of money for the development and the resource and they can deliver plant-based products. They take apples or pineapples or plantains, and they create a powder and apply it on top of the fabric. The good thing is that you can take these as a piece of fabric so you can use the entire surface so that you have less waste.
In this case, you are super-efficient, you can have your surface, and all the processes are certified and sustainable. It’s traceable. Also, materials like wood (real wood). There is this new technology where you can mold the wood to create the shoe. It’s incredible. I did a lot of research from other areas like furniture or automotive and that’s why I was able to apply the materials onto the shoes. So again, from the materials point and the factories, everything is certified, green and clean.
In the beginning, it was challenging to get all the quantities but now they have improved their resources. I have a close relationship with the suppliers and we are talking about the new material source, so that would be my next step. This is just the beginning so maybe the other brands can embrace this concept and this philosophy. Hopefully, more brands will use these materials in the future.
I am a great collector of vintage shoes. I have about 5,000 pairs or even more.
BO: You’re trying to change the paradigm of luxury footwear. I think you are leading the pack in a way.
MS: People are more aware and more conscious. It’s not cool anymore to buy real fur or real exotic. Also, the fact that huge department stores like Nordstrom banned fur or exotics is a great sign. They are not going to order these types of products anymore. I think it’s a great step forward.
BO: When you are designing, what goes into the creative process of gathering inspiration for the collection?
MS: My first experiences start with the colors and materials. I’m usually inspired by nature because that’s the concept of the brand. Then I create around ten or twelve colors for the season and that’s my core color palette and then I move to the shapes. So color’s first, then shapes. I have a very unique process where I’m tailoring and I love to create the shape directly. I create pieces on the piece of the material and I create some mock-ups. Then I go to the prototype stage, and then from there when I have a physical piece, I do some sketches.
After the prototype stage, I spend a lot of time fitting the shoes making sure they are sexy but comfortable. Then we go into production. Another thing is that the time for production is much shorter compared to other brands because the other brands usually work to design their collections now for next year. I just like to cut down on the middle man and production time to sketch now and have the collection ready in three months. That is also another great thing for the process because I think it’s an old business model to create the collection, think about next year, and be hopeful that it is going to sell. I don’t think that works anymore.
People are shifting and the way to shop is changing constantly. I think you have to try a little bit to understand and then adapt your brand.
THE LOOK
Corduroy Suit, Victor Li
BO: What is the best part of your job being a shoe designer?
MS: Definitely when you start a new season because your mind is completely free and you are like a sponge. You can get inspiration from everything - exhibitions, vintage, etc. I am a great collector of vintage shoes. I have about 5,000 pairs or even more. I have a great, great, archive. Another great moment is when you get the prototypes. From the first idea, the first sketch, the first mockup, to the actual first shoe, it is a great feeling.
BO: I agree. I was reading somewhere that you have to make sure that the people that you’re working with are producing what your vision is. From what you’ve said, it’s evident that you have a close relationship with your suppliers and factories.
MS: Now that I am managing all of the steps, I think it’s great to connect the dots, and as I say -- stay consistent from the prototypes to the sketches to the other creative parts. It’s great to see that everything is coming together. When you work for corporate companies, it’s hard to find a company that allows you to do what you want because you have to have a certain relationship with people.
Photo: Simi Vijay, Behind The Scenes
BO: What keeps you motivated to keep going despite any challenges you may have?
MS: It is just the first chapter of O2. I would love to see people wearing my shoes while spreading the sustainability message. That’s the most important. One of the things that will also make me happy is to see other brands following suit. I want to have great competition but in design. I hope that other brands can use the materials and also offer great designs. Also, I would love to expand the brand into men’s shoes and Ready-to-Wear as well.
BO: Let’s say you’ve launched your men’s, you’ve launched your Ready-to-Wear. What vision do you have for your brand for the next ten years and everlasting?
MS: I would keep the brand small in a way so that the customer has a good experience. My next step would be to improve the shopping experience for the pop-up stores. Maybe create a community. That would mean a new way to think about social media.
We’d be more like a creative community where we can share our experience and all these kinds of things. This impacts the lifestyle of the people being more aware and more conscious. It can start with shopping but it can also be with food. There are a lot of things that we can touch that coincide with the brand.
O2 Monde’s official brand launch will be in January of 2021.
