Menswear Designer, Teddy Vonranson Talks Modernizing American Classics With His Emerging Eponymous Label
WITH TEDDY VONRANSON
Although Teddy Vonranson may not have been born in The U.S. originally, the menswear designer’s rise to success certainly embodies every bit of the American dream.
Photography, Daniel D’Ottavio
Words, Douglas Henry Lewis In Conversation with Teddy Vonranson
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Originally born in Canada, the concept of functional fashion was ingrained naturally for Teddy Vonranson from a young age, largely due to his family roots. He recollects some of his favorite childhood memories as being able to wear his grandfather’s sweaters and ski jackets as well as noticing and complimenting his Kindergarten teacher’s brilliant sartorial choices. As a child who seemed to be very observant early on, it made complete sense to later discover that he was a very skilled artist and illustrator.
As a child, Teddy knew he wanted to be creative but also not a starving artist. When one of his friends informed him of the possibility of working in fashion, there was a light bulb that lit up within him and continues to shine today. The rest is history.
Teddy followed his own route of attending fashion school in Los Angeles, moving to New York, and worked his way up through the ranks of prestigious brands like Ralph Lauren and Frye. Yearning for more excitement and purpose, the designer dared to start his own name-sake label, Teddy Vonranson producing his first collection during the Spring/Summer 2020 season. Like clockwork, the designer began to gain significant momentum with retailers, celebrities, and the fashion press.
Everything I create, whether it’s a t-shirt or a 50-piece parka, the same kind of thought and soul goes into everything I’m making.
THE LOOK
TEDDY VONRANSON
Teddy talks about wanting his clothes to be worn on a range of men regardless of age and puts a lot of effort into making sure each piece is something which will last a lifetime. When I asked about the concept of craftsmanship, the designer proudly stated: “Everything I create, whether it’s a t-shirt or a 50-piece parka, the same kind of thought and soul goes into everything I’m making.”
Shortly after the launch of the brand, COVID-19 took a horrific toll on the entire fashion industry and Teddy was forced to re-evaluate how he and society as a whole would carry on.
Taking inspiration from his time spent at home in Long Island as well as frequent walks on the shores of Mecox beach, the designer took advantage of the quarantine to create a masterful collection built on central themes of the calming and grounding properties of the sea as well as the relationship between humankind and nature. His latest Spring/Summer 2021 collection entitled ‘OCEAN MEETS SKY’ is a true testimony of the man behind the brand.
The collection is full of very precise tailoring and classic American functionality. There is the occasional pop of vibrant color as well healthy juxtapositions of east and west that work surprisingly well together. For instance, there is an impeccable periwinkle blue silk/viscose tuxedo jacket mixed in with a delicious suede cowhide fringe jacket along with modernized versions of cowboy boots and bolo ties. In theory, these pieces may not traditionally be featured in the same collection but in TVR’s world, it is refreshing, executed well, and stays in line with the reason industries such as fashion exist in the first place: to move us all forward for a brighter promise for tomorrow. One of my favorite lines he uses when talking about his most recent collection: “There is something calming about looking out to that point of infinity where the ocean meets the sky: for me it’s a promise that anything is possible.”
BO: How did growing up in Canada shape your approach to life/design?
TVR: I always had a strong affinity to fashion and design. I grew up in a family who owned and valued quality timeless pieces, most of them passed down generationally. My older brother and I wore tuxedos my grandfather had made for my mother’s wedding to our senior prom. We learned to value style and craftsmanship over labels.
I had a strong affinity to the arts throughout school; drawing and painting became natural creative outlets, and I realized in my senior year of high school that I wanted to be a designer. The next several years served as stepping stones to achieve that goal; fashion courses in undergrad, art and design classes where possible.
I moved to L.A to attend design school and attained my associate degree in apparel and manufacturing, which eventually landed me a role as part of the concept team at Ralph Lauren for the Women’s Blue Label. I called it home for the next 15 years.
BO: Describe your first few years in the fashion industry.
TVR: It was my job at Ralph Lauren. It was the perfect fit for my approach to fashion and style. I believe you don’t accidentally end up at a company like Ralph Lauren without understanding and appreciating the aesthetic and values. Being a part of such a team sharpened my skills and taught me so much. Not just about design, but also about branding / marketing, merchandising and building a team.
BO: How did your time at Ralph Lauren/Frye influence the way you operate your own brand?
TVR: I learned on the job at both companies, and while both experiences could not have been more different, I took away a ton of experience from both settings.
Ralph Lauren is a huge and successful company and it seemed like the sky was the limit for someone in a creative role such as mine. The resources were plentiful and the talent that surrounded me was second to none, but it had its limitations too. After 15 years growing with the team, I felt like I hit a glass ceiling.
Frye was an extremely satisfying challenge. It gave me the opportunity to build a team from the ground up. Well, an apparel brand to be clear. I really was able to take everything I had learned over the years and put it into action.
While Frye was tiny in size compared to my former life, it allowed me to get more intimate with the process and expand my learning. It proved to be a logical intermediate step before starting my own label, and I could see it profiling on the horizon.
I believe you don’t accidentally end up at a company like Ralph Lauren without understanding and appreciating the aesthetic and values.
THE LOOK
TEDDY VONRANSON
BO: Explain the origin of your brand, TEDDY VONRANSON.
TVR: Simply put, TEDDY VONRANSON truly is the most authentic version of me; what I love and what inspires me. It’s Americana and I hope to do it with a fresh lens. I love the juxtaposition of classic tailoring and street influences. To me, it really is a fresh approach to Modern American Classics.
BO: How has the COVID-19 pandemic impacted the business?
TVR: As a young emerging brand, we don’t have a lot of overhead. We are able to really press pause when we need to. We are able to react so quickly to things. We don’t have the levels of red-tape and corporate infrastructure that some brands are challenged with during this time. We keep showing up and the universe is really taking care of us and I’m super-grateful. I give so many thanks and gratitude to everybody that continues to help and show up for us and our brand. I’m just going to stay super positive because there has been a lot of tragedy and devastation that has come out of this and will continue to. That’s where you have to be thankful and count your blessings and be stronger. Because of that, I can be stronger for the people around me and hopefully influence other people as well.
BO: Greatest accomplishments and/or lessons learned so far?
TVR: In my personal life, it would be meeting my husband and creating a life/family with him. In my professional life, starting my own business. It is not something you just wake up and decide to do - well at least not for me. It pushes and expands my limits preventing me from settling into something comfortable. I have grown fond of the challenge.
the modern consumer will be looking more and more to longer lasting products. it has always been my philosophy but now, it is more important than ever.
THE LOOK
Head To Toe, TEDDY VONRANSON
BO: Any thoughts on diversity and sustainability moving forward in the fashion industry?
TVR: Sustainability starts with creating quality goods that will not only last a lifetime but outlast oneself. Working with recycled and/or conscious materials is a part of the solution but making and consuming less is ultimately the answer. I believe we have come full circle and that the modern consumer will be looking more and more to longer lasting products. it has always been my philosophy but now it is more important than ever.
I pride myself on using stock goods to create most of my line. Stock goods meaning the material is already made and sitting on a shelf somewhere. I am grateful to have found brand partners who are making it easier and easier to buy stocked items with sustainable properties. Not unlike the question of diversity, it is a conversation that needs to always be on the table.
The upside of being a young brand is that it allows us to react to change quickly; we aren't caught up in the layers of corporate strategies and approvals. This is something I wish to preserve. I believe the future of the industry is dependent upon being lean, nimble and close to the process. Not only does it allow us to react quickly, but it also keeps us less vulnerable to uncontrollable outside economics while creating an authenticity and closeness which the customer craves now more than ever.
As for diversity, as a gay man living in New York City and working in fashion, the conviction that any form of racism or discrimination should not be tolerated comes naturally to me. But recent events make me realize that what I thought was enough might not be.
Over the last few months, there has been healthy discussion at TVR about how we can, both as a company and as individuals, be better, do better and it should be reflected in what we create and how we function day to day.
BO: What would you be doing if you weren’t designing?
TVR: The short answer is that I wouldn’t be living. To me, designing is as essential to me as breathing. It goes so far beyond the glamour and the pageantry of it. Designers work really hard and are super passionate and connected to their product. It’s really because it’s their art. I like to think even beyond this life, my spirit will continue to be creative in some way. It’s that rooted in what I do.
