Incase You Missed It: 'Aria' by, Gucci x Balenciaga
THIS JOURNAL BELONGS TO
DOUGLAS HENRY LEWIS
It all begins with a very sleek young man walking up to the Savoy Club.
‘Aria’ is an elaborate melody indeed, and although it does have a few riffs, it is still sung by none other than the luxurious voice of Gucci prêt-à-por·ter.
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Alessandro Michele has just unleashed a masterpiece of a collection for the Autumn/Winter 2022 season entitled “Aria,” an adequate name that is defined in the music world as air, tune, or specifically: an accompanied, elaborate melody sung (as in opera) by a single voice.
The collection is an elaborate melody indeed, and although it does have a few riffs, it is still sung by none other than the luxurious voice of Gucci prêt-à-por·ter. It is a sensational soiree that celebrates 100 years of consistent and classic design perfection.
It all begins with a very sleek young man walking up to the Savoy Club, a direct tribute to a once swinging jazz club in Harlem and the Savoy Hotel in London, the former workplace of founder Guccio Gucci. The same model peeks inside to view what appears to be a fantastical dimension of natural worldly delights. He then opens the door and opens the show sporting a red velvet suit, paying direct homage to an iconic look from the legendary tenure of Tom Ford as creative director.
Michele then proceeds to give further access to his “hacking lab made of incursions and metamorphoses,” a spot-on description for this collection that carries with it: a celebration of the brand core, a spirit of rebirth, and a refreshing edge that only comes from someone like Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga.
The essence of the brand’s equestrian roots is sprinkled throughout nearly each of the looks. There are strapped leather harnesses that extend from the waist to the neck, riding helmets and knee-length boots in varying prints, updated versions of jodhpur pants, and horsewhips that a few of the girls crack on their way down the catwalk. There is even a bag that resembles a muzzle for a horse!
The cut and feel of the suits are reminiscent of those that could have been worn by those who attended the Savoy in its heyday.
The incursion of Balenciaga is flattering overall. The sharp, streetwear edge of Gvasalia mixed in with the classic heritage of Gucci leather will prove to be both trendsetting and commercially successful overall. There are distinct looks that do scream Balenciaga, such as the cinched waists of a few of the suits and especially the monogrammed “G” versions of the infamous "pantashoes" we first saw for Balenciaga fall/winter 2017.
It is a given that the bags with bamboo details are staples for wardrobes everywhere, but the other accessories of this collection are nothing to be slept on for sure. There are diamond chokers, chain-link necklaces with letter charms that spell out Gucci and Balenciaga, huge leaf brooches, droopy nose and earrings, and the biggest standout of all: those crystal-embellished heart minaudiere’s.
Michele gives the man who is not afraid of gender-bending plenty of things to choose from for our post-pandemic parties. Pay close attention to the literal star-studded suit lined with ostrich feathers from the elbows to the wrist, also in an orange print with light sage green, and another in all black! There is an off-the-shoulder blouse and a long-sleeve crop top sweater, both for MEN! All of these elements – from the logomania, rhythmic prints, occasional sequins, embellishments, and lace, to the marvelous colors of lavender, emerald, yellow, coral, and pink – represent a healthy arrangement of liberation, celebration, equality, and a lot of fun.
Michele has taken the sex appeal of Tom Ford, the sharp edge of Demna Gvasalia, and even the ethnic impact of Dapper Dan to present an outstanding assortment of clothes that people will be talking about for quite some time. It is impressive to see Michele’s ability to pay homage to the brand's original codes while simultaneously exciting us all for the future.
It could be the songs playing in the film like “Gucci Gang” by Lil Pump and “Green Gucci Suit” by Rick Ross. It could be the models dancing together in those dark rooms in between the shots of the runway. Maybe it is the flashing lights sparkling as the models strut down the catwalk! Whatever it is, there is a feeling of free-flowing opulence that emanates from it all. It is a feeling of being free, glamorous, and something that makes you want to go out and party all night long. In his show notes, Michele describes it as “a deep and ecstatic diving in everything we yearningly miss today… a jubilee of breath.”
As the models leave the room at the Savoy, they finally run about freely in that fantastical dimension, appreciating nature, loving each other regardless of race or gender, and ascending into the sky. Such a powerful and glimmering image that is in perfect alignment with the global zeitgeist. Fashion is supposed to uplift the spirit and give us something to look forward to. This collection is a brilliant testimony of Alessandro Michele's mastery of his medium and his ability to use it to give us hope for brighter days ahead.