Paul Smith's SS24 Men's Collection: A Fusion of Tailoring, Subversion, and Heritage at Paris Fashion Week
PARIS FASHION WEEK
Step into a World of Reinvented Classics and Bold Statements as Paul Smith Explores Workwear, Military Uniforms, and His Own Archive.
4 MINS READ TIME
Words By RICHARD O’NEAL
Photography COURTESY OF PAUL SMITH
Paul Smith's SS24 men's presentation at Paris Fashion Week was a testament to the designer's unparalleled ability to reinvent and redefine menswear. Taking the suit as its starting and ending point, the collection delved into the depths of tailoring, exploring its various forms and pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear.
The show, titled "The Suit (But Different)," brilliantly showcased Paul Smith's look-by-look reimagining of intelligent dressing. Drawing inspiration from his illustrious archive, which spans decades of his career, the collection skillfully incorporated nods to iconic Paul Smith pieces while subverting classic menswear tropes and referencing workwear and military uniforms.
The collection's silhouette exuded a beautiful fluidity, offering a range of precise trim cuts in classic suiting fabrics and billowy, exaggerated shapes in lightweight casual materials. A captivating military-meets-mod aesthetic dominated the runway, with workwear and utility-inspired shapes and detailing. Tab waists, wider lapels, stitched carpenter-style trousers, and six-button double-breasted jackets seamlessly blended the worlds of tailoring and practicality.
True to Paul Smith's signature playfulness, the collection didn't shy away from unexpected pairings and juxtapositions. Tailored and classic striped boxer shorts were daringly combined with traditional suiting and workwear jackets, creating a whimsical "Breakfast Suit." Relaxed, pajama-inspired looks were artfully styled with matching ties, balancing comfort and refinement. A confident twist on archetypal menswear tropes was showcased through the "Canadian Tuxedo," featuring a denim trucker jacket and barrel-fit jeans.
Traditional menswear codes were honored through subtle references, including pinstripes, herringbone suede, polka dots, and waistcoats. The recurring theme of the three-piece suit, which has been a hallmark of recent Paul Smith collections, made a notable appearance, exuding timeless elegance. Even the footwear subverted expectations, with Derby shoes and sneakers featuring perforations reminiscent of vintage cycling shoes—an homage to Paul Smith's lifelong love of cycling.
The collection's confident palette drew inspiration from a single frame from Lawrence of Arabia. Pops of vibrant red punctuated sandy neutrals, fantastic charcoals, rich blacks, and soft blues add a dynamic touch. Fabrics played a crucial role in enhancing the collection's narrative, with lightweight interpretations of classic suiting in puppy tooth and pinstriped cloths, alongside slub satin, cotton canvas, and textured knits.
Elevated prints with a touch of Paul Smith's trademark humor added a playful dimension to the collection. The "Life Drawing" print, featuring a hazy collage of archival tailoring, suit patterns, and neoclassical references, injected vibrant splashes of color. A trompe l'oeil print cleverly imposed archival suiting on silken shirts, offering a refined interpretation of a tongue-in-cheek trope. Lastly, the "Morning Light" print beautifully mimicked rays streaming through Venetian blinds, adding an artistic flair.
In Paul Smith's words, "Tailoring is so often thought of as such a serious business, but I've always been keen to show people how much fun you can have with it—especially now." This sentiment resonated throughout the collection, where impeccable craftsmanship and the art of tailoring were married with a sense of humor and joy. From military-inspired uniform looks to nods to traditional business wear, Paul Smith's SS24 presentation exemplified his fascination with what constitutes a suit, offering an answer as captivating as it was stylish.
