London Fashion Week 2022: The Designers To Look Forward To
LONDON FASHION WEEK: FW22
If there is one thing these collections showed us it is that menswear is leading the conversation surrounding a more complete view of masculinity.
Words, Nick Hendry
Models at the SS Daley AW runway show during London Fashion Week. Photo: Courtesy of SS Daley
The shapes and garments which have been associated with menswear for years are still seen in abundance
but they are presented in a way which emphasises the fact they are not the only options available.
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The fashion Industry has turned its eyes to Europe once again for another glimpse at upcoming FW22 collections, beginning with London Fashion Week.
While most of the designers involved are creating for women, there was still a strong cohort of menswear labels represented. Progressive attitudes and modern takes on masculinity, along with a greater focus on comfort and ease of wear, were the shared themes of many of the presentations from some of London’s most exciting young fashion creatives.
Here are a few of the best.
Photo: Courtesy of SS Daley
SS Daley
Steven Stokey-Daley has just been announced as a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize, and the courage and verve of his collections make it easy to see why. A strong 70s influence was visible throughout the latest offering, with strong check prints to the tailoring and more of the slouchy, oversized shapes that have made his work so popular, most famously with modern fashion icon Harry Styles.
Photo: Courtesy of Erdem
ERDEM
Luxury brand ERDEM only began creating menswear in 2021, despite their boutique having dressed some of the most discerning women of London’s super-chic Mayfair district since 2005. Wide lapels, generous cuts and bold colours and prints were all on display, alongside some classic grey flannel tailoring. Founder Erdem Moralioglu may not have been doing menswear long, but he’s certainly doing it well.
Photo: Courtesy of Robyn Lynch
Robyn Lynch
FW22 sees a continuation of the successful partnership between global outerwear powerhouse Columbia and Irish designer Robyn Lynch. Her work creating new, fashionable pieces from Columbia’s deadstock has been well-received, and the latest iteration shows plenty of fun and energy through its use of striking yellows and electric blues. The collection is rugged and practical for the winter it is intended to defend against, but this has not come at the cost of aesthetics. Clever design has made each piece as stylish as it is functional, and it’s easy to see why such a huge outerwear name chose to work with this talented young designer.
Photo: Courtesy of Kaushik Velendra
Kaushik Velendra
Indian-born Kaushik Velendra was an LVMH Prize semi-finalist himself in 2020, and his tailoring brand has gone from strength to strength since. Velendra pieces have a fantastic drape and flow to them, and the FW22 range explores the shapes which have become his trademark in wonderful tones of green and gold. This whole collection oozes swagger and style, and combines them with a more modern version of elegance than many of the tailoring houses which neighbour Velendra’s new Mayfair studio.
Photo: Courtesy of Danshan
DANSHAN
This is a brand determined to explore a more expressive form of masculinity, allowing the wearers of their garments to display a more complete version of themselves while remaining true to the overall traditions and shapes of menswear. Contrasting colours create drama; generous drape allows pieces to be supremely comfortable to wear. Long coats layered over light-but-cosy knits create looks that have masculinity at their core, but a distinctly 21st century version of it. Long may they continue.
