Ben Brewster Breaks Down the New Rules of Black Tie

COVER STORY

Mar 25

Written By Igee Okafor

WITH BEN BREWSTER

NAVIGATING tradition and modern style.

Photography, Frederic Georges, SIMI VIJAY

Words, Igee Okafor In Conversation with Ben Brewster

VIEW GALLERY

Black tie has long been the gold standard of formalwear, But with its prestige comes a strict set of rules—ones that dictate everything from the necessity of a bow tie to whether a cummerbund is still relevant.

As menswear evolves and contemporary tastes shift, the question arises: How much of the tradition still holds, and where is there room to redefine elegance?

To explore this balance between heritage and modernity, I sat down with menswear EXPERT Ben Brewster, a man who understands the rules well enough to know when to break them. Ben is known for his sharp eye, timeless style, and deep appreciation for sartorial tradition. With a following that looks to him for both classic menswear inspiration and modern interpretations, Ben understands the art of dressing well better than most. He believes in knowing the rules before bending them, making formalwear feel less like an obligation and more opportunity for self-expression.

From off-the-rack vs. custom tailoring to the importance of fabric, fit, and investment pieces, Ben shares how he approaches formalwear in a way that feels both timeless and personal. Because when it comes to style, it's not about rejecting tradition—but reinterpreting it with confidence.

“it’s about wearing what makes you feel confident.”

THE LOOK
Tuxedo Jacket, Institchu; Shirt, Proper Cloth; Bow Tie & Cummerbund, ETON

BEN’S father was stylish, fully embracing the bold fashion of the ‘60s and ‘70s. “Exaggerated collars, plaid suits with bell bottoms, long flowing hair—he lived that ‘70s European lifestyle,” BEN recalls with a laugh. But while he admired his father’s confidence in dressing, he never quite adopted the bell-bottom trend himself. “Maybe someday,” he teases. “They’re making a comeback.” Beyond aesthetics, the biggest lesson he learned from his father had nothing to do with fabric or fit. “It’s about how you present yourself and the way you treat people. More important than the clothes themselves is how you carry yourself in them.”

Growing up in a boarding school environment, BEN was always surrounded by formal clothing, which naturally introduced HIM to menswear. At the time, wearing suits felt more like a chore than a choice. Later ON, when HE began A career in politics, traditional menswear became even more ingrained in HIS daily life. HE wore a suit every day, and the rigid 9-to-5 routine made it feel uninspired.

The repetition left HIM with a negative perception of suiting, something HE associated with obligation rather than expression. However, stepping away from that structured environment gave HIM a fresh perspective.

Once suiting was no longer a requirement, HE started to explore it on his terms, discovering the nuances of tailoring, different fabrics, and unique cuts that made the experience enjoyable. Moving to New York played a huge role in shaping HIS appreciation for menswear—being surrounded by a culture where personal style thrives, seeing how people experimented with silhouettes on the streets, and being exposed to a higher level of craftsmanship elevated HIS understanding.

At the same time, the rise of Instagram and the modern menswear movement helped redefine how HE saw suits. What was once an obligation became an exciting form of self-expression, and discovering the world of custom suiting was a game-changer that allowed HIM to fully embrace menswear in a way that felt personal, creative, and entirely HIS own.

THE LOOK
BEN BREWSTER IS WEARING TOM FORD SUNGLASSES

When asked about his earliest black-tie memory, BEN jokingly tosses out, "Prom," before breaking into laughter. But while that milestone event may have been his first brush with formalwear, his real introduction to black tie came later in life. "I went to formal weddings and the occasional black-tie event when I was younger, but it wasn’t part of my world until I moved to New York," he admits.

Prom, however, was the first time he consciously engaged with the idea of formal dressing. "I kept it simple—black tux, white shirt, black bow tie. I think I did a peak lapel. Very classic." Of course, AS MOST HIGH SCHOOLERS, HE WAS AT THE MERCY OF A RENTAL TUX, WHERE FIT IS MORE suggestion than a guarantee. "I’m fairly certain the tailoring was terrible—extra-long sleeves, way too much room in the body. But tailoring is a learning process. It takes trial and error to find what works for your proportions. Everyone starts somewhere, and for most people, a prom rental is their first lesson in black tie."

Despite the ill-fitting suit, BEN didn’t hate the experience—far from it. "Even though it wasn’t a beautiful bespoke tux, it gave me the chance to experiment with suiting for the first time—waistcoat or cummerbund, black or white jacket, laces or loafers. It was a new and creative experience, and once everything was put together, I felt dressed for something special." That feeling of occasion, of putting thought into the details, stuck with him.

When it comes to mastering black tie today, he looks to icons like Ryan Gosling, who "has never looked bad on a red carpet," and Brad Pitt, who consistently delivers timeless, well-tailored ensembles. Of course, there’s also the gold standard: James Bond. "Whether it’s Roger Moore or Daniel Craig, Bond has always set the bar for classic tuxedo dressing." Yet, he’s equally intrigued by the way younger generations are pushing the boundaries of formalwear—swapping bow ties for open collars, cummerbunds for sleek minimalism, even pairing tuxedos with t-shirts. "Those kinds of looks inspire me to think outside the box. it’s about wearing what makes you feel confident. And honestly, it’s hard to look bad in a tuxedo."

“Ryan Gosling does extremely well.”

One of the most surprising black-tie "rules" BEN recalls is the idea that you shouldn’t wear a watch with a tuxedo. "Supposedly, it complicates the silhouette of the outfit," he explains. "And, traditionally, checking your watch at a formal event was considered rude—like signaling you had somewhere better to be."

The rule may have historical roots, but BEN isn’t entirely sold on it. "Men don’t have as many ways to personalize a black-tie look, so accessories like watches can make all the difference. Taking that away removes a layer of individuality." He applies the same philosophy to jewelry. "A simple piece—a bangle bracelet or a signet ring—adds just enough detail to make a look stand out." That said, he does abide by one key styling principle: matching metals. "If you’re wearing a silver watch, wear a silver bracelet. Gold cufflinks? Pair them with a gold watch. It keeps everything cohesive."

Beyond accessories, BB has a soft spot for certain classic elements of black tie, starting with the cummerbund. "Not only does it lengthen the legs and hide the waistline—which is never a bad thing," he laughs, "but it also covers that awkward ‘shirt triangle’ that peeks out beneath your jacket button. A cummerbund keeps the silhouette clean from head to toe." He’s equally devoted to the timeless pairing of a black bow tie with a shawl-collar tuxedo. "There aren’t many black-tie scenarios where that combination feels out of place. A peak lapel is great too, but I use it more for my casual suits. When I go full tuxedo, a shawl lapel adds a regal feel—it’s an easy nod to a special occasion. You know you’re going somewhere cool."

BEN also prefers a wider shawl lapel, a detail that adds character and sets his tuxedo apart. "It’s not something you usually find off the rack," he notes. And for him, that’s the whole point—honoring tradition while making it your own.

While black tie is a hallmark of sophistication, BEN finds it can be a bit monotonous. "There’s this mindset that there’s only one way to do black tie, and most men stick to the standard black jacket, black tie, and white shirt," he explains. While he believes starting with the classics is essential, he also encourages experimenting once a man gets comfortable. "If you’re wearing a tuxedo more than once a year, switch it up—a burgundy velvet jacket, a double-breasted shawl collar, something that adds intrigue so you don’t feel like you’re wearing the same thing over and over."

When it comes to shopping for formalwear, BEN sees value in both off-the-rack and custom suiting but acknowledges the trade-offs. "There’s nothing wrong with buying off the rack—it’s all about what fits your budget and makes you feel confident," he says. "But the challenge is that you’ll often need to invest in a good tailor to get the right fit." If possible, he recommends going custom for a more unique, personalized look. "Customization today is nearly limitless. If you can dream it, they can probably make it." When choosing a custom brand, fit should be the top priority. "Look at their past work, study their craftsmanship, and pay attention to fabric quality. For instance, InStitchu uses Australian merino fabrics that are soft, durable, and drape beautifully."

Navigating the design process can be overwhelming, with so many choices, so HE emphasizes preparation. "Know your body, know what colors work best on you, and go in with clear references." He suggests bringing a second opinion, whether it’s a stylish friend or someone you trust. "A girlfriend is always a great shopping partner," he jokes, "but The key is making sure you have the right people—whether it's a stylist, a friend, or the brand’s experts—helping you put together something that feels like you."

his personal signature involves subtle details that set him apart. “I love adding some metal—whether it's a minimal bracelet or eye-catching cufflinks,” he says. He’s also a devoted fan of the cummerbund, both for its functional and aesthetic appeal. while pocket squares can be divisive, he sees them as a way to introduce an unexpected detail that contrasts with the formality of traditional black tie. But when dressing for different events, he emphasizes reading the room—or, more specifically, the invitation. “You don’t want to turn up to a white-tie event in a velvet smoking jacket,” he laughs. His rule of thumb? If the invitation says ‘black tie optional,’ that still means it’s time to bring out the tux. Context and season also play a role—lighter fabrics like cotton-linen blends for summer AND richer textures like velvet for winter.

Fabric preference is a key element in defining one’s black-tie aesthetic. BB traditionally leans toward a tux with classic satin lapels and black wool fabric, but lately, he’s been drawn to velvet in bold colors like burgundy or deep green. “Once you’ve invested in a timeless tuxedo, don’t be afraid to experiment,” he advises. He sees the modern menswear space as an evolving playground where tradition meets innovation. while some might argue that black tie can feel rigid or overly formal, BB believes its longevity is a testament to its power. “I was looking at old family photos over the holidays, and there was my dad as a kid in 1962 at his sister’s wedding—wearing the exact same black tie ensemble I wore this past New Year’s Eve. A white dinner jacket, black tie, black trousers. There’s something about black tie that connects the past with the present in a way that still feels relevant.”

More than just aesthetics, BEN sees black tie as an experience—one rooted in craftsmanship, precision, and the heightened excitement of dressing for a special occasion. “It feels different from a regular suit. Part of that is the glove-like fit of a well-tailored tuxedo, and part of it is what a tux represents—stepping into an elevated version of yourself, even if just for the night.” He also ties this feeling to the concept of luxury, which he believes is more about emotion than price. “Luxury isn’t just about cost—it’s about feeling like royalty, about stepping out of reality for a moment.” In that sense, black tie isn’t about being stuck-up or restrictive. It’s about embracing an enduring tradition while making it your own.

THE LOOK
Tuxedo Jacket, Institchu; Turtleneck, SAND Copenhagen; Bow Tie, ETON; Wrist Watch, Timex

“Luxury isn’t just about cost—it’s feeling like royalty.”

In an era where minimalism is gaining traction, BEN sees value in thoughtful investments over excess consumption. While designers and artisans continue to push the boundaries of creativity, the foundation of black tie remains unchanged: a well-MAde tuxedo, worn with confidence, is never out of place.