Menswear Influencer, Ben Brewster On The New Rules Of Black Tie
WITH BEN BREWSTER
What it is about the custom tailored suit and its embodiment that makes wearing it so Nostalgic for Ben Brewster.
Photography, Frederic Georges | Simi Vijay
Words, Igee Okafor In Conversation with Ben Brewster
VIEW GALLERY
The black-tie dress code has held its character as the benchmark for formalwear all across the board. With its legend comes traditional rules and ideas of how it should be interpreted to be recognized on a global scale. Do you really need to wear a bow tie? Can you only wear white or black? Is a cummerbund necessary?
I sat down with menswear influencer, Ben Brewster to review judgements and impressions of tradition in formal-wear, and as we know it in present day fashion as modern men influenced by contemporary taste.
Ben is a prime example of the aphorism that one can only break rules after mastering why the rules were there in the first place. Cause, effect, and idiosyncratic resolution. You don’t always have to follow the rules especially when it comes to an experience as expressive as menswear.
Black Tie Culture is one of the more sustainable aspects of fashion in general because of Its timelessness.
THE LOOK
Tuxedo Jacket, Institchu; Shirt, Proper Cloth; Bow Tie | Cummerbund, ETON Shirts
Off the rack shopping, custom tailoring, investment pieces, fabric, texture, and durability - Ben Brewster discusses the various ways in which he navigates it all.
THE LOOK
Cufflinks, Tateossian London; Shoes, Magnanni
EIC: Were you always interested in menswear growing up?
BB: Yes, I've always had an interest in menswear. Growing up in a boarding school environment, there was certainly an emphasis on formal clothing, which is where I began to gain an appreciation for tailoring in general. Back then, it was more of a chore, though. Starting off my career in politics was another avenue where traditional menswear came into play big time. I was wearing a suit every day and I think the monotony of the 9-5 left me with a bad taste in my mouth when it came to suiting. It wasn’t until I got out of that environment that I was able to enjoy the finer aspects of menswear: exploring different fabrics, cuts and designs that I wore because I wanted to, not because I had to. Discovering the world of custom suiting was a real game-changer.
EIC: Usually when people feel inconvenienced by something, they never want to do it but you wanted to continue exploring. What prompted you to want to continue exploring even after you figured you didn’t necessarily have an affinity for menswear/suiting?
BB: I think getting out of a formal office setting helped me take a step back and appreciate what goes into making a really nice suit. Once it wasn’t a uniform anymore, it became a much more enjoyable experience. Something that I could put more thought into. Moving to New York and seeing this whole new level of tailoring, experimenting with different silhouettes and fabrics, just walking around seeing what people are wearing on the street certainly made a big impact. Of course, the explosion of Instagram and the whole menswear movement also helped.
Ryan Gosling does extremely well. He’s definitely someone I’ve taken inspiration from over the years.
EIC: Growing up, did you ever have to attend black tie events or any other spaces where you had to dress up more formally? What’s the earliest memory you recall?
BB: Yea, prom. [laughs]
EIC: Really?
BB: [laughs] No, I went to formal weddings and the occasional black tie event when I was younger, but for the most part black tie didn’t come into the picture for me until I moved to New York.
EIC: But you wore a tuxedo to prom I’m assuming. What was your idea of what that was supposed to look like or be?
BB: I’ve always kept it pretty simple when it comes to black tie. My concept was to keep things clean and minimal; black tux, white shirt, black bow tie. I think I did a peak lapel. Very classic. It was definitely a rental. I wasn’t doing any custom suiting in high school, and I’m fairly certain the tailoring was terrible. Think: extra long sleeves and way too much room in the body. But tailoring is a learning process. It takes trial and error to find what works for your own proportions. Everyone has to start somewhere—and a prom rental tux tends to be where people start when it comes to black tie.
THE LOOK
Sunglasses, Tom Ford
EIC: When you put that tuxedo on for the first time, going back to your prom experience, did you enjoy wearing it? Did you hate it or feel like it was something you wanted to continue?
BB: I actually enjoyed it. Even though it wasn’t a beautiful bespoke tux, it afforded me the chance to experiment in suiting for the first time -- deciding between a waistcoat or cummerbund, black or white jacket, laces or loafers. It was a new and creative experience and once it was all pulled together, I felt dressed for something special.
EIC: Who epitomizes wearing black tie well to you?
BB: Ryan Gosling wears it extremely well -- he’s never looked bad on a red carpet. As a fan of traditional combinations, I also keep an eye on Brad Pitt during awards season, who is always in a classic, well-tailored ensemble. And of course it’s always fun to look back at the different James Bond tuxedos from over the years, whether it’s way back with Roger Moore or most recently the Daniel Craig era. Lately, it’s been intriguing to watch the younger generation explore more with colors and fabrics, even ditching black tie stalwarts like bow ties and cummerbunds in favor of plain dress shirts or even a t-shirt underneath the jacket. Those kinds of looks definitely inspire me to think outside the box a bit. At the end of the day it’s about wearing what you’re comfortable in, and honestly it’s hard to look bad in a tuxedo.
There’s no problem starting With off the rack. It’s all about what you can afford.
Photo: Simi Vijay, Behind The Scenes
EIC: What traditional rules of black tie do you enjoy?
BB: Well there was a saying that you couldn’t wear a watch with your tuxedo.
EIC: [surprised] Wait, what? That’s hilarious.
BB: Supposedly because it complicates the silhouette of the outfit. Also, you don’t want to be rude looking at your watch during a special occasion.
EIC: It makes sense, no?
BB: Yes and No. I feel as men, one of the few ways we can make our black tie look a little bit more interesting is through accessories, like watches. So if you remove that aspect it can throw off your whole vibe. It takes away from your uniqueness and originality. In the same vein, a simple piece of jewelry is a great way to add a little bit of detail to a black tie look. Like a bangle bracelet or a signet ring. One rule that I do follow is to match your metals. If you’re wearing a silver watch, wear a silver bracelet. If you’re wearing gold cufflinks, wear a gold watch. And while we’re on the topic of traditional rules, I have to say I love a cummerbund. Not only does it lengthen the legs but it also hides the waistline, which is never a bad thing I think. [laughs] It also covers the dreaded “shirt triangle” that appears when your white shirt shows underneath your jacket button, making for a cleaner silhouette from head to toe. Additionally, I love a classic black bow tie paired with a shawl collar. There aren’t many black tie scenarios where that duo will be out of place. The other option is a peak lapel, but I do a lot of my more casual suits in a peak lapel so when I’m branching off into a full on tuxedo the shawl lapel adds a regal feel. It’s an easy nod to a special occasion. You know you’re going somewhere cool.
EIC: I noticed that your shawl lapels are a little wider which I prefer as well.
BB: It adds a bit more character than the standard width. It’s not something you will usually find on the rack.
Photo: Simi Vijay, Behind The Scenes
THE LOOK
Tuxedo Jacket, Institchu; Turtleneck, SAND Copenhagen; Bow Tie, ETON Shirts; Wrist Watch, Timex
EIC: Is there anything you do not enjoy about black tie culture?
BB: It can be a little monotonous. There is sort of an attitude of “there’s one way to wear a black tie and that’s how it’s supposed to be done”. I feel like most men aren’t willing to branch out from the traditional black jacket, black tie, and white shirt as often as they should. However I do think that is the right starting point. Start with the classic tux, and if you do have the opportunity to wear a tuxedo more than once a year, you can go for something more interesting. A burgundy velvet jacket, a double breasted shawl collar, something with a little more intrigue so you don’t feel like you’re just wearing the same silhouette over and over.
EIC: It sort of goes back to what you were saying earlier about custom suiting. Is this something that you think men should follow when they are looking to get started with formalwear? What are your thoughts on off the rack shopping?
BB: There’s no problem starting with off the rack. It’s all about what you can afford and what makes you feel confident. The general problem with going off the rack is the substantial investment of time and money to find a good tailor to alter your suit. If you can go the custom route, I definitely think it is worth it. Not only will the suit fit better, but it will be more unique. The customization options available nowadays are near endless. If you can dream it, they can most likely make it.
EIC: When people are looking to create custom tuxedos with brands like you’ve done with Institchu, what are some of the things they should look out for when it comes to the brands they decide to work with?
BB: Definitely pay attention to whether they can get the fit right. Take a look at examples of suits the brand has made in the past and pay attention to the workmanship. InStitchu for example, does an incredible job of tailoring a suit to your body, taking into account your specific proportions and dimensions. On top of that, you want to research the fabric quality the brand is using especially if they’re charging a premium price for it. InStitchu’s Australian merino fabrics for instance are soft and durable, and they drape extremely well.
EIC: What about being strategic when it comes to design? Do you typically go with what is suggested to you? How do you go about editing what you want and figuring out what’s best?
BB: Research ahead of time. Know your body. Know what colors work best on you. Sometimes with custom suiting, there are so many options available, it can be a bit overwhelming. Going in, you definitely want to have your design and references laid out ahead of time.
EIC: For men who aren’t typically stylish trying it out for the first time, do you think that they need a second eye? and if they do, what kind of eye should they be bringing along? A stylist you think? A friend who they deem stylish?
BB: Well, a girlfriend is always a great shopping partner, but if you’re working with a brand like InStitchu, their staff is incredibly helpful in figuring out exactly what you’re looking for—and laying out a plan with specific recommendations from there. So I would definitely say, make sure the brand you choose to work with has a knowledgeable staff that they can help guide you through the process. Or, just bring your best dressed friend.
EIC: If you had to come up with black tie rules that were signature to you, what would they be?
BB: I do love adding some metal to the look in the form of a minimal bracelet or eye-catching cufflinks, and as I’ve said I’m a big proponent of the cummerbund. Now I know you’re not the biggest fan of the pocket square, [laughs] but incorporating a uniquely detailed pocket square to contrast the formality of traditional black tie can make things a bit more interesting in my opinion.
EIC: Do you think there should be different variants of black tie specific to its events? Should there be different strands of clothing specific to dances, weddings and alike?
BB: There should definitely be some variants based on the formality of the occasion. I say pay attention to the invitation. You don’t want to turn up to a white tie event in a velvet smoking jacket or something. It all depends on the occasion. People often see a black tie optional invitation and don’t know what that means, and honestly it tends to mean something different to everyone. In my opinion, it always means it’s time to bring out the tuxedo. But if you’re ever confused, just ask the host. Also pay attention to the season. If it’s a summer event, a cotton-linen blend would be more suitable than a velvet number.
EIC: When you shop, do you have a preference for fabric or texture?
BB: Traditionally, I tend to opt for a tux with classic satin lapels, and black wool fabric. Lately I’ve been gravitating toward velvet though, especially when it’s in a unique color like burgundy or deep green. Again, it’s all about personal preference and what you feel comfortable in. If you’re a conservative dresser, perhaps your first tux shouldn’t be bright orange. At the same time, don’t be scared to experiment. Once you have the basics down and have invested in something timeless to start, try something new. That’s the fun thing about the menswear space. There’s always something new to experiment with.
EIC: What do you believe the simpler mission of black tie to be? Does its design concept have a purpose? Perhaps to empower in a way that is not usually aligned on a day to day basis?
BB: Well, it’s designed for the special occasions. As a status symbol of sorts. But I feel it can get a bit monotonous when everyone’s kind of wearing the same thing. Does the outfit still feel special? Sure. But I think finding ways to differentiate your vision of black tie, without being tacky or outlandish of course, is one of the fun parts about modern black tie. There’s more leeway to get creative with the dress code today than there has been in the past.
EIC: Perhaps this might be a more thought question. Why do you think people should respect it? At times on the flip side, the idea gets a bad rep of being too try hard or stuck up. There are men who prefer to stay home in their t shirts and jeans rather than going to an event they probably would’ve gone to if the dress code wasn't listed. Do you think they should care?
BB: There are certain traditions worth keeping alive. There is a timelessness to black tie that transcends the idea of fashion. I was looking at some family pictures over the holiday season, and there was my dad, a kid at his sister’s wedding in 1962, wearing the exact same black tie ensemble I wore this past New Year’s Eve—a white dinner jacket with a black tie and black trousers. There’s something about the idea of black tie that evokes an appreciation of the past, while still feeling relevant in the present day.
EIC: What about feeling? How does it make you feel when you’re wearing one compared to when you wear a regular suit in all your confidence and comfortability? Does it change since the tuxedo is more of an elevated version? It doesn’t have to - I’m just wondering.
BB: It definitely does feel different. Part of that is an appreciation for the craftsmanship and glove-like fit of a well-tailored tuxedo, and part of that is what a tux has come to represent. When you’re wearing a tux, it’s for a special occasion. So that excitement and intrigue is definitely part of it.
EIC: Is the general perception of luxury innate in this conversation?
BB: I think so. To me, luxury is less about the price tag and more about the feeling. Feeling like royalty, escaping reality. I see what you mean.
EIC: Was your dad well dressed?
BB: He was. He grew up in the sixties and seventies, wearing the exaggerated collared shirts, plaid suits with the bell bottoms, long flowing hair [laughs] He spent time in Europe so he definitely enjoyed that seventies lifestyle.
EIC: Did you do the bell bottoms?
BB: Never. Maybe someday. They’re definitely coming back.
EIC: Did you learn anything style wise from him?
BB: How to present myself, and the way I treat people. More important than the physical clothing, is the way you act when you’re wearing those clothes.
EIC: There has been a lot of talk about sustainability especially within the fashion industry. I’ve been reading up on it and one of the solutions I find incredibly interesting is the idea of buying less. It definitely makes sense because we really don’t need a lot of clothes to live. From a creative standpoint though, for designers, artisans and alike, it can be a bit limiting. With black tie, how you make sure what you’re investing in is durable?
BB: Black tie culture is one of the most sustainable aspects of fashion in general because it’s timeless. Like I was saying, the same tuxedo that worked in 1962 still works in 2020. If you buy a classic black single-breasted shawl collar tuxedo, it’s going to work now and it’s going to work in 10, 20 years. With good care, it’s one of the most sustainable pieces the modern man will invest in. Of course, you get what you pay for. The higher the quality of the product, the longer it will last.
